I don't mean just that they taste good and are well balanced wines, although they do and they are. 2007 Michel Brégeon Muscadet S è vre et Maine Sur Lie , $10.80 (mixed case discount price), Imported by Kermit Lynch Wine Merchant. After reading David Lillie's great Muscadet piece in the Art of Eating I had to drink some Muscadet. MORE >>

This dinner was a great opportunity to taste new things by my favorite producers, and also to get acquainted with some of his producers who are new to me. 2008 Michel Delhommeau Muscadet Sèvre et Maine Sur Lie Cuvée Harmonie , about $15. Headrick's portfolio is small, but well selected. Very fragrant, it really lingers on the finish. MORE >>

If this guy invited me to a three hour tasting of Boone's Farm wines, I would go. First it was the 1989 Domaine de la Pépière Muscadet Clos des Briords , a direct refutation of the crazy talk coming from some guy on the left coast about how there's no reason to age Muscadet. Well, the chef at Alto did, anyway. MORE >>

With my grilled sardines he served a glass of Fiano (I don't remember which one), but I remember how the smokiness of the wine and its great clarity made my sardines taste impossibly good. For anyone interested in Muscadet, this is an absolute must-read. I just got the new Art of Eating , issue number 85. MORE >>

Perhaps these things are a bit silly to focus on, but it became an issue when I decided to convene the Brooklyn Blind Tasting panel to sample a load of "basic" German Riesling from the 2009 vintage. Anyway, I bought some wines for the tasting, and when I asked a few Riesling importers for donations, they were all a bit confused. MORE >>