I'm talking about fine wines by a handful of great producers, like Marc Ollivier of Domaine de la Pépière, Pierre Luneau-Papin, Jo Landron of Domaine de la Louvetrie, Guy Bossard, and André Brégeon. Our bottle of 2007 Domaine de la Pépière Muscadet Clos des Briords was corked, sadly, as was our 2005 Luneau-Papin L D'Or.

For example, consider one of the white wines recommended by Ben Hagan at Slope Cellars, the 2006 Jardin de la Fruitière. 50-50 blend of Chardonnay and Melon de Bourgogne (the Muscadet grape), this wine is fresh and crisp, lively and well balanced. This might sound simple, and fine, maybe it is. And it costs $10.

Ben Hagan, one of the wine buyers at Slope Cellars in Park Slope, Brooklyn recommends (Slope Cellars prices listed) : Whites: 2006 Caves de Saumur Saumur Les Pouches, $13, LVDH Imports (100% Chenin Blanc). 2006 Caves de Saumur Saumur Les Epinots, $13, LVDH Imports. For several months now the Euro is comfortably in the 1.5

White wines from Muscadet are made from the Melon de Bourgogne grape. There are a couple of appellations in Muscadet, the best of which is considered to be Muscadet de Sevre et Maine. Surprising length on the palate with pronounced mineral, citrus oils, and some ripe green melon too. And it was a good date.