friendly wagging dog greets our arrival at the home of vignoble Gilles Lafouge, who now runs this sixth generation Auxey-Duresses winery. Like Sylvani Langoureau, Gilles Lafouge (the son) has his cellar, and a vat room, in his own middle class house located in a typical Burgundy neighborhood. screw.

Here's what I have for them so far: Older daughter - 2007: Domaine Jean et Gilles Lafouge Auxey-Duresses 1er Cru La Chapelle , $27, Imported by Fruit of the Vines. The daughter was there in the Lafouge cellars, inside her mommy's belly, when her mommy tasted this very wine (and spat, thank you very much). Pierre Gonon St.

A good friend came over the other night and brought our dinner with him, a bottle of 1995 Lafouge Auxey-Duresses 1er Cru La Chapelle , price unknown, USA Wine Imports. Note to self - cellar some La Chapelle. have a soft spot for the wines of Jean and Gilles Lafouge. The wines are expressive and true, and affordable.

John Gilman, author of the newsletter The View from the Cellar , joins us again for a Q&A. But being younger than the gentleman I just mentioned, I do not have the same reserves of old vintages of white Burgundy or white Bordeaux in my cellar, and so premox has really hit my collection hard. Are these wines forcibly better?

There are parcels in Saint Romain, Auxey-Duresses, and in several red wine spots, but the most important Thierry et Pascale Matrot wines come from small parcels in some big-shot Meursault and Puligny 1er Cru vineyards, including Meursault Perrières, Charmes, and Chevalières, and Puligny Les Garennes.

I'm talking about weather problems like hail or heavy rain or some other climatic stress, when a producer makes adjustments in the vineyards and sometimes in the cellar, and makes the best wines they can. This wine suffered from a case of under-ripe tannins, and no amount of cellaring can fix that. But that's because it's true.

According to the tasting sheet, "All these growers work in the most 'natural' way possible, avoiding chemical treatments in the vineyards or the use of selected yeasts or additives of any kind in the cellar. Part One of the 8th Annual Real Wine Assault took place at Chambers Street Wines yesterday. Part Two is next Saturday.

We began in the cellars of Morey-Blanc, tasting through the lineup of reds. We then moved on to Morey-Blanc's whites, and then drove several blocks to Domaine Pierre Morey's cellars to taste his whites. Pierre Morey in his cellar. Romain, Auxey-Duresses, and St. And we were thrilled and awed. And somehow, leaner.

He started his career in wine retail, later worked as a sommelier with a soft spot for Burgundy, and now has embarked on the foolhardy notion of writing a bi-monthly wine newsletter, A View from the Cellar. Domaine Lafouge Auxey-Duresses rouge- either of their two premier crus are stellar- La Chapelle or Climat du Valle ( find these wines ).

Will they cellar forever? I also picked out an Auxey-Duresses 1er Cru "La Chappelle" from Jean & Gilles Lafouge. For an in-depth appraisal of Lafouge's many wines, check out Brooklynwineguy's blog at: Brooklynguy's Wine and Food Blog: 2004 Lafouge Auxey-Duresses 1er Cru Les Duresses.) 2005 Burgundy!

2005 Lafouge Auxey-Duresses 1er Cru Les Duresses , $28 (Chambers Street Wines). Of Lafouge's three 1er Cru Auxeys, this is supposedly the one for drinking young. Time will tell, as I have enough of this in the cellar to water your lawn. loved this wine back in March at the real Wine Attack Tasting. Good acidity.

We walked through a cellar where the 2006 wines were adjusting to new life in barrels, and into a larger cellar with both barrels and big red steel tanks. The Auxey Duresses, for example, was very tasty, but in a flabby way. When we learned that we would be visiting Domaines famous for white wine, we were excited.