We went inside and warmed up by the fireplace before heading next door to her cellars and winery. The same sensibility extends to the cellar, where she makes the wines without filtration, without cold-stabilization and without any sulfur at disgorgement. She disgorged a bottle of the NV Brut for us, based on the great 2008 vintage. MORE >>

This Pradeaux rose is only a year old, but already offers a glimpse of what time in the cellar will do. drank the 2002 in Portland on the day that I met my good friend Peter Liem , back in August of 2008. Been so busy lately with work that I just haven't had time to write here. Whoa, this is just amazing wine. More, please. MORE >>

If you want to try it, Astor Wines has it on the shelves right now, and I hear that a few other shops are considering carrying it - in a few weeks try Uva or Slope Cellars in Brooklyn. The non-vintage Extra-Brut we drank was based on wines from 2007 and 2006, but because of the ripe richness of the wine, I guessed it was based on 2008. MORE >>

On my recent trip to the Loire, I got an excellent chance to explore this issue at the cellars of none other than Domaine Bernard Baudry in Chinon, one of my favorite producers in the Loire. The tannins are fine; the wine in 2009 exhibits fine tannins while the 2008 could benefit from more bottle age (or a good decant). MORE >>

Here's what I drank recently: 2008 Marcel Lapierre Morgon , $20, Kermit Lynch Wine Merchant. I've read comments on the interweb about variation again in 2008, but specifically with the "N" lots - no sulfur as I understand it. 2008 Jean Foillard Morgon Cuvée Corcelette , $34, Kermit Lynch Wine Merchant. Sigh of relief. MORE >>