Levi Dalton, who empowers the list at Convivio, might be the high priest of wine geek sommeliers. Early his summer he had a crazy thought and posted a come hither on the wine board, winedisorder.com, a thread by the name of 'Show Me Some Skin.' He was talking about the chimerical wine category now called Orange. Count me in', I said. The night came.

Here's an assortment of wines (first three from Savio Soares, importer) that have me hanging on to the bottles. All are organic in reality, if not in certification (chianti does have cert). certainly fooled me in a blind tasting. Absolutely charming wine, made by supposedly crazy winemaker 16 k south west of Orleans. Somewhere around $30?